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双语热点:“越高越好”:为什么厚底高跟鞋再度成为时尚******

厚底高跟鞋再度成为时尚,明星们正踩着高耸入云的鞋子引领解封后的新潮流。回溯历史,人们对厚底高跟鞋的狂热经历了几个时代的起起伏伏,“社会动荡和经济压力大”的时期,人们对厚底鞋的兴趣似乎就会增长,这背后又有怎样的原因呢?

'The higher the better': Why platform heels are back in fashion

Heels are making a serious comeback, with stars leading the post-lockdown trend for towering footwear.

高跟鞋正在卷土重来,明星们正踩着高耸入云的鞋子引领解封后的新潮流。

Beyoncé donned a pair of this year's "it" shoe -- six-inch hot pink Versace platform heels -- to an event in August, spurring an internet frenzy over the item.

碧昂丝在 8 月的一次活动中穿上了今年的“it”鞋——6 英寸的粉红色范思哲厚底高跟鞋,立刻在网络上激起了对这款鞋的狂热。

"People just want to feel happy again," said celebrity stylist Nicole Chavez in a video call, adding that high heels, particularly bright-colored and sparkly ones, are part of the greater "mood-enhancing" fashion seen across the board, from clothing to accessories.

“人们只想再次感到快乐,”明星时尚造型师妮可·查韦斯 (Nicole Chavez) 在视频通话中说,并补充说高跟鞋,尤其是亮色和闪亮的高跟鞋,无论对服装还是配饰,都能够起到全面“提升情绪”的作用。

"We're coming out of wearing sneakers and being in comfortable shoes, and so the jump from sneakers to stilettos is a big one," Chavez said. "I feel like the platform, because it is more comfortable, is a great alternative.

查韦斯说:“我们不再穿着运动鞋,穿着舒适的鞋子,所以从运动鞋到细高跟鞋是一个很大的转变。” “我更喜爱厚底鞋,因为它更舒适,是一个很好的选择。

"Right now, it's platform everything. The higher, the chunkier, the better."

“现在,到处都是厚底鞋。越高、越粗越好。”

But women aren't the only ones wearing platforms. Rapper and singer Lil Nas X often wears them with his flamboyant outfits, while Billy Porter paired his sparkling Richard Quinn gown with statement platform boots at The Fashion Awards. "Saturday Night Live" star Bowen Yang spiced up a more traditional facing black suit at the Emmys with silver ones by Brooklyn based Syro, which brands itself as "femme footwear 4 everyone."

但女性并不是唯一穿着厚底鞋的人。说唱歌手兼歌手 Lil Nas X 经常将其与华丽的服装搭配,而比利·波特(Billy Porter)则将他闪亮的理查德·奎因(Richard Quinn)礼服与时尚大赏中的个性厚底靴搭配在一起。 《周六夜现场》明星杨伯文在艾美奖上用银色Syro厚底鞋为一套传统的黑色西装增添了色彩,而Syro的品牌定位为“人人都可以穿的女性鞋子”

Syro co-founder Shaobo Han says that the shoes have become a tool for self-expression as people increasingly challenge and blur gender binaries.

Syro 联合创始人韩少博表示,随着人们越来越多地挑战和模糊性别二元性,鞋子已成为自我表达的工具。

"Being able to display that femininity (on the street) without feeling ashamed is powerful," Han explained.

“能够在不感到羞耻的情况下展示女性气质(在街上)是强大的,”韩解释道。

A sign of the times

时代的标志

The popularity of platforms has risen and fallen throughout history. Ancient platforms existed as far back as 6th century BCE. Over time they evolved, encompassing East Asian wooden styles worn by Manchu women during the Qing dynasty and the lavishly patterned geometric ones of the 16th century, known as "chopines."

厚底鞋的流行在历史上起起落落。古代的厚底鞋可以追溯到公元前 6 世纪。随着时间的推移,它不断发展,包括清朝满族妇女所穿的东亚木制款式和 16 世纪被称为“chopines”的华丽的几何图案款式。

Noblewomen in southern Europe would wear these "wildly high" platforms, increasing the length of the textiles, according to Elizabeth Hemmelseck, the director and senior curator of the BATA Shoe Museum in Toronto. One recorded pair was as high as twenty inches.

多伦多 BATA 鞋类博物馆馆长兼高级负责人伊丽莎白·赫默尔塞克 (Elizabeth Hemmelseck) 表示,南欧的贵族女性会穿着这些“非常高”的厚底鞋,从而增加纺织品的长度。有记录的一对厚底鞋高达二十英寸。

The platform heel -- which combined both a block sole and heel -- is believed to have emerged in 17th century Persia. “The style was worn by Persian horseback riders," said Hemmelseck.

厚底鞋 - 结合了厚底和高跟 - 被认为是在 17 世纪的波斯首先出现的。赫默尔塞克说:“波斯骑兵穿着的就是这种款式。“

Once the high heel was developed, they fell into obscurity before coming back into fashion during the 1930s, 1970s and late 1990s and 2000s. Interest in platforms seems to grow during times of "social unrest and economic stress," Hemmelseck observed.

之后随着高跟鞋的发明,厚底鞋就变得无人问津,然后在 1930 年代、1970 年代和 1990 年代后期和 2000 年代又重新流行起来。赫默尔塞克观察到,在“社会动荡和经济压力大”的时期,人们对厚底鞋的兴趣似乎就会增长。

"Why (is it that) during the Great Depression the shoes go bananas?" she asked. "Why during the oil crisis and the economic woes of the '70s (are) our shoes going crazy again? Is there some commonality?"

“为什么在大萧条期间鞋子的风格会发狂?”她问。 “为什么在石油危机和 70 年代的经济困境期间,我们的鞋子又会再次发疯?这是巧合吗?”

It's a trend that technology company IBM researched in 2011 with a study exploring why heels go higher during these challenging periods, as well as during later crises like the dot-com bubble bursting in the late '90s.

这是科技公司 IBM 在 2011 年的一项研究,探讨了为什么在这些充满挑战的时期,以及在诸如 90 年代末互联网泡沫破灭这些后来的危机中,高跟鞋会变高。

Beyond being a form of escapism, however, platforms again rose in popularity in the 1930s due to pragmatism, Hemmelseck speculated. Many women at the time couldn't afford a luxurious wardrobe, so investing in an expensive platform heel that could be worn with many outfits offered a way to participate in fashion trends through a "single outrageous accessory," she said.

赫默尔塞克推测,除了作为一种逃避现实的形式之外,出于实用主义,厚底鞋在 30年代再次流行起来。她说,当时的许多女性买不起豪华的衣饰,因此投资昂贵的厚底鞋,通过用“单品出位的配饰”参与时尚潮流的方式搭配许多服装。

In the 1970s, the platform heel once again saw a resurgence, with the likes of David Bowie and John Travolta storming the stage with sky-high versions. On stars like Bowie, Travolta and Elton John, the shoes presented "larger questions about the (gender) binary," Hemmelseck added.

1970 年代,厚底鞋跟再次复兴,大卫·鲍伊 (David Bowie) 和约翰·特拉沃尔塔 (John Travolta) 等人穿着超高跟的鞋子冲上舞台。 赫默尔塞克补充说,对于像鲍伊、特拉沃尔塔和埃尔顿约翰这样的明星,这双鞋提出了“关于(性别)二元论的更大问题”。

Men during this period were "talking about this being a revival of (French King) Louis XIV," who was known for his powerful, opulent wardrobe. "Can't we Western men shake off this boring uniform of authority, the business suit and begin to connect with our innate masculinity through how we dress?"

这一时期的男人们“谈论这是(法国国王)路易十四的复兴”,这位国王以其强大而华丽的衣橱而闻名。 “我们西方男人就不能摆脱这种无聊的制服,或者西装,开始通过我们的着装与我们与生俱来的男子气概联系起来吗?”

Platform heels have also developed different connotations over time -- and in some cases symbolize sex work. Over time, it evolved into the clear Lucite platforms of the '90s worn by strippers and pole-dancers, thanks to brands such as Pleaser, which then trickled into the mainstream in the 2000s as stars adopted them into fashion.

随着时间的推移,厚底高跟鞋也产生了不同的含义——在某些情况下,它象征着性工作。随着时间的推移,它演变成 90 年代脱衣舞者和钢管舞者穿着的透明 Lucite 厚底鞋,这要归功于 Pleaser 等品牌,然后随着明星将它们带入时尚,它在21世纪初逐渐成为主流。

As for the platform heels favored at red carpet events this year, Hemmelsack said the style plays off this eroticism as well as the surge in '90s nostalgia.

至于今年红毯活动中备受青睐的厚底高跟鞋,赫默尔塞克表示,这种款式充分利用了这种情色和 90 年代怀旧情绪。

Beyond fashion

超越时尚

In 2021, "dopamine dressing" has become a widely used term in fashion, characterizing the desire for bolder, brighter, sexier outfits.

2021 年,“多巴胺穿衣”风格已成为时尚界广泛使用的术语,代表着人们渴望更大胆、更明亮、更性感的服装。

Some of Syro's creations -- such as ostentatious red platforms and the metallic silver ones worn by Yang -- have coincided with this trend, selling out almost immediately to the surprise of co-founders Han and Henry Bae.

Syro 的一些作品——例如耀眼的红色厚底鞋和杨伯文所穿的金属银色厚底鞋恰逢这一趋势,一上市几乎立即售罄,令联合创始人 Han 和 Henry Bae 感到惊讶。

"People want to feel powerful and (be) powerful. That's something I think platforms really make all of us feel. The moment you put them on, the additional five-inch height that you automatically get, you just start to suddenly see the world differently," they said.

“人们想要感觉强大和(变得)强大。这就是我认为厚底鞋真正让我们所有人感受到的东西。当你穿上它们的那一刻,你自动获得额外的五英寸高度,你只是开始突然看到这个世界不一样,”他们说。

"Living our life as authentically and as joyfully is a protest against the repression that we've been feeling."

“过着真实而快乐的生活是对我们一直感受到的压抑的一种抗议。”

UK's Elizabeth wants Charles' wife to be 'Queen Camilla' when he's king******

Britain's Queen Elizabeth said on Saturday that she wants Prince Charles' wife Camilla to be styled Queen Consort when he becomes king, cementing her place at the heart of the royal family after once being judged an outsider.

In a letter written to mark the 70th anniversary of her accession to the throne, the Queen said the occasion had given her pause to reflect upon the loyalty and affection shown to her by the British public.

She said she hoped Charles and Camilla would receive the same support.

"(It) is my sincere wish that, when that time comes, Camilla will be known as Queen Consort as she continues her own loyal service," she said.

Charles and Camilla, long-time lovers, were married in 2005 in a civil ceremony in Windsor. Their Clarence House residence said on Saturday that they were "touched and honored by Her Majesty's words."

Queen Elizabeth's move reflects a wider acceptance of Camilla's status as a royal.

Tabloid newspapers no longer target her as they did in the decade following the death in 1997 of Charles' first wife, Princess Diana.

Camilla – whose current title is Duchess of Cornwall – now regularly represents the royal family alongside Charles during official duties.

Throughout British history, the wife of a king typically is given the title Queen Consort. At the time of their marriage, it had been officially decided that Camilla would use the title Princess Consort if Charles were to become king.

While Queen Elizabeth on Sunday celebrates 70 years on the throne – an unprecedented stretch – the anniversary comes at a time of tumult for the royal family.

From the US sex abuse court case facing her son Prince Andrew to allegations by her grandson Prince Harry and his wife of racism in the royal household, rarely has the 95-year-old Queen's family faced such scrutiny and damaging headlines.

Last year, she lost her husband of 73 years, Philip, whom she acknowledged in her letter on Saturday.

"I was blessed that in Prince Philip I had a partner willing to carry out the role of consort and unselfishly make the sacrifices that go with it. It is a role I saw my own mother perform during my father's reign," she said.

Earlier on Saturday, the Queen kicked off celebrations for the 70th anniversary by inviting local community groups to her Sandringham residence in the east of England.

The Queen, pictured smiling and wearing a light blue dress, cut a celebratory cake baked by a local resident and heard a rendition of "Congratulations" played by a concert band.

"I remain eternally grateful for, and humbled by, the loyalty and affection that you continue to give me," she said in her letter to the public.

Ironically, Queen Elizabeth was not destined to be monarch at her birth, and became queen only because her uncle Edward VIII abdicated to be with American divorcee Wallis Simpson.

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习近平同巴西联邦共和国总统举行会谈 两国元首一致同意推动中巴全面战略伙伴关系取得新的更大发展******  央视网消息(新闻联播):国家主席习近平1日下午在人民大会堂东门外广场举行仪式,欢迎巴西联邦共和国总统米歇尔·特梅尔对我国进行国事访问。

  中共中央政治局委员、中央政策研究室主任王沪宁,中共中央政治局委员、中央书记处书记、中央办公厅主任栗战书,全国人大常委会副委员长王晨,国务委员杨洁篪,全国政协副主席张庆黎等出席欢迎仪式。

  陪同特梅尔访华的有外交部长、驻华大使、交通、港口和民航部长、农业、渔业和供给部长等。

  军乐团奏巴中两国国歌。鸣礼炮21响。

  特梅尔在习近平陪同下检阅中国人民解放军三军仪仗队。

  两国元首回到检阅台观看仪仗队分列式。

  随后,军乐团进行行进吹奏表演。

  特梅尔是应习近平的邀请对我国进行国事访问的,特梅尔还将出席金砖国家领导人厦门会晤和新兴市场国家与发展中国家对话会。

  欢迎仪式后,习近平主席在人民大会堂同特梅尔总统举行会谈。两国元首一致同意深化中巴传统友谊,推动中巴全面战略伙伴关系取得新的更大发展。

  习近平指出,中国和巴西分别是东西半球最大发展中国家,都是重要新兴市场国家。中巴关系是成熟而稳健的发展中大国关系。过去一年,中巴合作稳中有进,贸易、投资、金融“三驾马车”呈现并驾齐驱的良好局面。两国合作机制运转顺畅,双方就金砖国家合作以及重大全球性热点问题保持卓有成效的沟通和协调。

  习近平强调,中方始终从战略高度和全局角度看待和发展同巴西关系,赞赏巴方长期坚持一个中国原则,愿与巴方继续在涉及彼此核心利益和重大关切问题上相互理解和支持。双方要发挥中国-巴西高层协调与合作委员会等机制作用,统筹推进各领域交流合作,积极探讨“一带一路”倡议同巴西“投资伙伴计划”“前进计划”对接,促进地区互联互通和联动发展。双方要促进贸易畅通,推动双边贸易持续稳定增长。要深化中巴基础设施建设、制造业、农业、矿业、能源、产能和科技创新合作。要扩大文化、新闻、旅游、体育等领域交流合作。双方要密切在联合国、二十国集团、基础四国、世界贸易组织等多边框架内合作,就全球经济治理、可持续发展等重大国际问题协调配合。

  习近平指出,10年来,金砖国家开辟出一条平等互利、合作共赢的新路子,取得了一批实实在在的成果。中方愿同巴方一道努力,推动金砖国家经济合作、政治安全、人文交流“三个轮子”一起转,开启金砖合作第二个“金色十年”。

  习近平强调,中方坚定支持拉美联合自强、发展振兴,致力于构建携手发展的中拉命运共同体。中方对同南方共同市场合作持积极和开放态度,愿提升中国与南方共同市场合作水平。

  特梅尔表示,巴中亲密友好,巴西高度重视发展两国全面战略伙伴关系,是伟大中国的可靠伙伴。巴方愿在国家改革发展进程中加强同中方贸易、投资、金融、农业等全方位互利合作,扩大人文、旅游、体育交流,增进两国人民相互了解和友谊。巴中双方在联合国、二十国集团、世界贸易组织等多边框架内立场相近,就气候变化、发展等全球性问题保持密切沟通协调。巴方全力支持中方办好金砖国家领导人厦门会晤,愿同中方携手推动金砖国家和发展中国家加强团结合作。

  会谈后,两国元首共同见证了产能、电子商务、质检、电力、旅游、卫生、融资、文化体育等领域共10多项双边合作文件的签署。

  王沪宁、栗战书、杨洁篪等参加上述活动。

华商直播帮有结果:108省道关家村段道路破损已着手解决******

  10月8日,华商报《108省道关家村段破损》一文,通过文图及华商直播帮的方式,报道了108省道关家村段道路破损附近居民出行难的问题,引起相关部门高度重视。长安区太乙宫街道办事处表示,会及时对路面进行回填,积极与长安区交通局、住建局进行对接,商讨彻底解决问题的办法。

  10月7日,有市民通过华商报热线反映称,108省道关家村段道路破损,到处都是水坑,唯一的公交车也绕行了,附近居民出行特别困难。华商报记者到现场采访此事,并通过“华商直播帮”现场直播了此事,随后在华商报文图报道。看到报道之后,长安区太乙宫街办相关负责人联系华商报,对此事作出了回复。

  据了解,108省道关家村段路面破损一事,长安区太乙宫街办多次派人到现场勘察,目前该路段路面已损坏、坑槽较多。造成这一问题的主要原因是沿线各村污水管道已建成,但关家村段污水管道和污水处理厂建设滞后,沿线村民将村内排水接入污水管网,加之近期辖区强降雨天气多发,致使108省道路段低点处新北村、关家村污水井冒水,沥青路面遭到浸泡,且该路段重型大货车通行频繁,反复碾压导致路面病害逐步加大。

  108省道关家村段路面破损影响群众出行问题,经群众反映和媒体报道,长安区太乙宫街办高度重视,积极与长安区区交通局、住建局进行对接,商讨解决办法。长安区住建局已安排施工单位进驻关家村,开始污水管道施工,并着手准备建设临时污水处理设施应急,建成后将解决108省道沿线各村污水管道排水问题,为108省道关家村段道路修复提供基础。街办、村委会将全程配合,为施工提供便利,确保早日完工。

  这位负责人表示,由于近期降雨影响,预计污水管道和临时污水处理设施建设预计11月中下旬完工,污水处理厂随后建设。在108省道关家村段路面修复之前,太乙宫街办将视路面情况及时使用砂砾等材料进行路面坑槽回填,临时保畅,也请广大群众给予理解。

  华商报记者 毛蜜娜



来源:华商网-华商报

编辑:报社方正

增值电信业务经营许可证B1.B2-20100053

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